October/November 2006

Click here to download a PDF of this month's issue

Articles:

The Dog’s Den - Zoe’s Point Of View Breaking Up Cat Fights: A Pride of Lions... Or Scaredy Cats Happy Tales: Luke and Brady Can Cats And Dogs Live Together? Book Reviews: Cesar’s Way: The Natural, Everyday Guide to Understanding and Correcting Common Dog Problems By Cesar Millan Featured Breed Of The Month: Siberian Husky Tasty Treats: Doggie’s Favorite Birthday Cake Ask AKC: Lisa Peterson Ask The Vet: Dr. Douple Cockatiels: Egg-sessive Behavior Are You Ready For Your New Puppy?

The Dog’s Den: Zoe’s Point of View

Hello to all of my new companions. Let me start off by introducing myself. I’m Zoe Engle, an American Eskimo Dog who’s turning one year old on October 11. I’m liking this birthday stuff; the other day I found invitations to my birthday party! Mom doesn’t know that I found these because I didn’t chew on them. I am learning! From what I see, my nanny is hosting it. It’s probably too silly for mom, but she’s going along with it. I hope that I get lots of toys!

A little background information... I live in Centerville with my mom, brother (Desi) and sister (Lucy). I’m not sure about those two. Mom says that they are cats and they just don’t understand my communication yet. When I run to greet them, they run upstairs. Naturally, I chase them, but that never ends well. All I want to do is play!

Mom plays with me a lot, but even she gets frustrated at times. Over the first couple of months she kept talking about “housebreaking,” but I didn’t understand. I broke plenty of things in the house, but that still didn’t make her happy. What’s a puppy to do?

I enjoy long walks, dinner time and prefer to chew on anything that I’m not supposed to. Why chew on a little toy when there’s a whole couch right in front of me?

Anyway, I’m thrilled that you have picked up our very first issue of Your Pet Connection! Throughout the magazine, you’ll find articles written by contributing writers in our community, an Ask the Vet column, a book review and many other interesting tidbits.

I hope you enjoy the magazine, and if you have anything to share, please contact my mom: tcengle@ypconline.net. Hope to hear from you soon!

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Breaking Up Cat Fights: A Pride of Lions... or Scaredy Cats?
By Lizz Lund

It’s 4:00 a.m. and the growling lions of the Serengeti awaken you from a blissful slumber. Again. The problem is, the fierce yowling and hissing of lions is actually coming from downstairs – and your own two Tabbies.

Aside from the effects of sleep deprivation upon your health, your cats’ fighting can have repercussions upon their health, too. And, ultimately, the dynamics of your Peaceable Kingdom.

Domesticated cats have lived with mankind for about 4,000 years, so the occasional skirmish between your pet cats has nothing to do with reverting back to “the wild.” As your cats grow together and mature, their interactions change. What once was normal behavior as kittens may morph into role reversals in adult years. And if you’ve introduced a new cat into the home of an established cat, some defensiveness – exhibited through hissing or aggression – is not uncommon.

It’s important to stop the dispute from escalating, or becoming habit. And if either cat is bitten or scratched, a visit to your veterinarian is advisable to prevent the possibility of abscess wounds – which, when untreated, can be fatal.

How do you break up a cat fight? A small spray bottle filled with water can be very effective. Make sure to buy a new, clean bottle, and NEVER re-use a bottle that has housed any kind of household chemical, including hair spray or soap. The residue from these products can be extremely harmful, especially if it comes in contact with their eyes or is ingested as they clean themselves.

Spraying clean water at your feuding cats is usually an effective deterrent, as most cats flee and separate. Once the fight is disrupted, keep your cats apart for awhile. If one cat hides in another room and it’s a safe environment, make sure a light is on and close the door. Also make sure you provide a separate litter box, as well as food and water, for his overnight solo.

Ultimately, it’s important to determine the cause of the disputes and discontinue your role as the Wee
Hour Referee.

Sometimes fights happen because of turf battles about litter boxes or food. It’s a general practice to have one litter box per cat, as well as to have litter boxes in different areas, or levels, of your home. Litter box disputes can lead to one or more cats becoming unwilling to void near the other - or in the litter box. This may result in illness and/or voiding in unwanted areas of your home. Do your cats have their own food bowls? While sharing food and water bowls might have been fun as kittens, it may not be as adults - particularly if one cat eats everything, and the other is left hungry or thirsty.

If one cat is older than another, he may not be a willing baby-sitter for “Junior.” Make sure your younger cat has various toys to keep her attention away from starting a play fight – that may escalate into a real fight - with your senior cat.

Alternatively, fights can erupt due to health issues. If one of your cats is not feeling well, he can act defensively. A senior cat whose eyesight or hearing is failing may not allow other cats near her. In these scenarios, a visit to your veterinarian is advisable. If your cat’s health is not the issue, you’ll be better equipped to move on to detect the root cause of the fighting.

Cats are creatures of habit. And, like all creatures of habit, cats fall into bad patterns as well as good. Making the effort to determine the root cause of their fighting will ultimately better your cats’ quality of life – and yours.

Note: Lizz Lund is not a veterinarian, nor does she have any veterinary training. The information presented is provided as a general understanding and is not intended to diagnose or treat pets. To keep your pet in good health, make sure a qualified veterinarian examines your pet on a routine maintenance basis, and especially if you suspect your pet may be ill.

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Happy Tales: Luke and Brady….

A “Happy Tail”…of two big boys that needed a home. Our story began about three years ago. We had just lost a very precious pet, Duce, a special needs dog that had stolen my heart just two short years before when we adopted him from The Dogs’ Den in Grantville. Normally my husband and I adopt dogs that have been abused or have medical problems that make it difficult for them to be adopted. After the loss of Duce, I felt the overwhelming need to open up our home yet again to a dog looking for a forever home. I am constantly visiting the websites of area shelters to read the stories of available dogs. One dog in particular caught my eye, so off to the Humane League of Lancaster County I went. His name was (still is) Luke.

This yellow lab seemed so eager to get out of his cage to see us up close. It was obvious that he was in search of affection. His information listed the reason he was put up for adoption as not being housebroken. That was not enough to scare us off…so Luke came home with us that night. His penmate, a very large black lab, looked so sad when we left; it seemed that he realized his friend was leaving for good.

We quickly found out that Luke was indeed housebroken, as long as we let him out on a regular schedule. Luke fit in well with our other dogs from the start, but I could not get the image of the black lab’s sad eyes out of my mind. I remembered reading that black dogs have less chance of being adopted for some reason.

So...three days later I went back to the Humane League and adopted Luke’s friend, who we renamed Brady. In a matter of three days I had added two relatively large dogs to our already chaotic, animal-filled household. I am a firm believer that these animals know that they have been rescued. They look into your eyes with a look of gratitude that they know they will now have a secure home and a full belly for the rest of their lives.

Luke has some issues...we suspect that he was kept outside with very little contact with animals. He does not know how to play with dog toys and gets upset when the other dogs decide to put on a show with their playful antics. He is very insecure and craves attention from my husband and me...always wanting to be near us and touching us.

Brady is a very special boy. I believe that he may have been given up due to a new baby or small children in the home. He definitely shows some food aggression and does not like to share his toys. Our home is perfect for him as our children are all grown up. Brady has some medical problems - he had to have a large tumor, which thankfully was benign, removed from his abdomen. A few months ago Brady began to have seizures. We are not sure if he has a brain tumor or if he is suffering from epilepsy. He is on daily medication but still experiences a seizure every few weeks. He never leaves my side unless he absolutely has to be away from me. He “hugs” me - all true dog lovers know what I mean by that.

These two boys have added so much to our lives. I am so glad that I made those two trips to the animal shelter three years ago. After all, isn’t giving and receiving unconditional love really what life is all about?

Send your pet’s story to P.O. Box 119, East Petersburg, PA 17520 or email tcengle@ypconline.net. Don’t forget to include a picture!

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Can Cats and Dogs Live Together?
By Paul Duxbury

Many people believe that it is impossible for cats and dogs to live together peacefully. Perhaps this belief is brought on by images seen in cartoons or by one or two negative experiences between cats and dogs. But, in reality, it is quite possible for the two species to live together peacefully – and even to live together as friends.

Genetics
Genetically, there are reasons for cats and dogs to dislike each other. By nature, dogs are predators that tend to chase things that move quickly and that are smaller than them. Of course, cats fit this description, making them the perfect play toy for dogs wanting to utilize their predatory skills.

Cats, who are also predatory, can also exhibit stalking behaviours toward dogs, despite the fact the dog is usually much bigger. In addition, cats will defend themselves, so thus begins the rivalry.

Environmental Influence
Of course genetics and instinct alone aren’t the only reasons why dogs and cats sometimes don’t get along. During the first two to three months of an animal’s life, it learns who its friends and its enemies are. Therefore, a puppy raised with cats will most likely tend to get along better with the cats. Similarly, a kitten raised with dogs will not think much of the dogs. In fact, it is often easier to raise a new kitten in a household with dogs than the other way around because cats tend to be more territorial than dogs. A highly predatory dog, however, will make it more difficult to introduce a new kitten to the household.

Training Pets to Live in Peace and Harmony
Teaching cats and dogs that don’t get along with each other to live together can be a somewhat difficult task, but it is possible. The best way to accomplish this is to allow the animals to spend time together while a human chaperone is present. The more time animals spend with one another, the more tolerant they become of the other. In fact, this can often lead to a very affectionate relationship. Puppies and kittens that are raised together have the best chance of developing a positive relationship.

If a dog has been particularly cruel to cats in the past, however, it is probably not a good idea to try to get the two species to co-exist. Even if the dog doesn’t manage to get the cat, it will most likely make the cat’s life difficult by continually chasing after it. Similarly, a puppy might need to be protected from a particularly territorial or mean cat.

Dogs can also be trained to leave cats alone, just as they can be trained to fetch, sit or stand still. For a pet owner who has the time and patience, the dog can be leashed with a training collar. Another person can bring the cat increasingly closer to the dog. If the dog sits still, it should be praised. If it attempts to lunge after the cat, the leash should be pulled and the dog should be told, “No. Leave it!” Some dogs learn quickly, while others take a little longer.

Another approach for training the dog can also be utilized. This approach uses positive association. Each time the dog is in the same room as the cat, it is provided with extra attention and treats. Soon, the dog realizes having the cat in the room is a good thing because it gets something good out of it. In this way, it positively associates the cat with things that it desires – affection and tasty treats!

Feeding Time
Even cats and dogs that get along might start fighting during mealtime. Most animals are very protective of their food. In addition, they tend to be quite curious about the food the other animal is enjoying. For this reason, it is best to have separate feeding stations for cats and dogs.

It is best to place the cat’s food in a high, hard to reach area. Otherwise, the dog will have a tendency to eat the cat’s food, or to at least try to eat it. Of course, the food should still be placed in an area the cat can easily reach and eat comfortably. Cats don’t generally try to eat dog food. But, in the case of a cat that does, this behaviour should be discouraged. The best way to do this is to feed the two animals at the same time, but in different places.

It is also important to remember that cat and dog food each have different nutrients, so one should not be used in place of the other. Therefore, it is not only necessary to keep the food separate in order for the pets to live in harmony, it is also necessary to keep them healthy.

Article Source: www.articlerich.com

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Book Reviews
Cesar’s Way: The Natural, Everyday Guide to Understanding and Correcting Common Dog Problems - By Cesar Millan
Review By Daisy Okas

I’ve been a fan of Cesar Millan’s since before he was well known as the Dog Whisperer on his National Geographic Channel TV show. But then, he knows the way to a dog owner’s heart: on tour to publicize his upcoming show, he stopped by the AKC offices and praised my Beagle “Olive” commenting on her “calm energy.”

Millan’s latest endeavor is “Cesar’s Way: The Natural, Everyday Guide to Understanding and Correcting Common Dog Problems” (Harmony, $24.95) an extremely comprehensive book that I would recommend to any current or potential dog owner, especially those who watch the show yet haven’t been able to put “Cesar’s way” in to practice.

Viewers of the Dog Whisperer know about Millan’s common sense understanding of dogs as animals first, dogs second, breed third and lastly individual personalities, and about the “calm-assertive energy” he believes we must project to keep our pets in line. It’s always impressive to watch Millan in action on the show, but rather intimidating to think of dealing with that high-energy hound on one’s own. But Cesar’s Way illustrates Millan’s theories in a way that allows the reader to gain confidence both in themselves and in Millan. He describes his lifelong love of dogs and his varied experiences as a boy watching pack behavior on his grandfather’s farm in Mexico, grooming dogs as a new immigrant to the United States, and ultimately becoming a trainer dealing successfully with deeply distressing cases of abuse, fear and aggression.

It seems that Millan materialized on scene when needed most – our culture anthropomorphizes dogs as never before. While role models like Paris Hilton appear on magazine covers and TV shows with their dogs in fur coats and pearls, Millan urges readers to understand their dog’s animal instincts and innate needs in order to prevent or address behavior problems. Many of his theories and recommendations directly challenge the current trend toward indulging and humanizing our dogs and therefore may seem harsh to some pampering pet owners. Yet any dog owner, whether they think they need the advice or not, would be well served to read and consider Millan’s very complete and convincing treatise before discounting him.

Millan’s common sense attitude extends to many canine controversies and he is blunt about what it means to be a responsible dog owner, and what one needs to consider before acquiring a dog. The book advocates the importance of considering the right dog for your lifestyle, or as Millan puts it, a dog “to match your energy level.” He is against breed bans and puts the onus on humans to give every dog the leadership it needs -– for the well-being of the owner, the dog and society.

Between Cesar’s Way and new hour long episodes of the Dog Whisperer airing every Friday at 8 p.m. ET/PT there is no excuse for any dog owner not be the leader of their pack.

Daisy Okas is the Assistant Vice President of Communications at the American Kennel Club.

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Featured breed of the month:
Siberian Husky
Group: Working

The Siberian Husky was originated by the Chukchi people of northeastern Asia as an endurance sled dog. When changing conditions forced these semi-nomadic natives to expand their hunting grounds, they responded by developing a unique breed of sled dog, which met their special requirements and upon which their very survival depended. The Chukchis needed a sled dog capable of traveling great distances at a moderate speed, carrying a light load in low temperatures with a minimum expenditure of energy. Research indicates that the Chukchis maintained the purity of their sled dogs through the 19th century and that these dogs were the sole and direct ancestors of the breed known in the United States today as the Siberian Husky.

Shortly after 1900, Americans in Alaska began to hear accounts of this superior strain of sled dog in Siberia. The first team of Siberian Huskies made its appearance in the All Alaska Sweepstakes Race of 1909. The same year, a large number of them were imported to Alaska by Charles Fox Maule Ramsay, and his team, driven by John “Iron Man” Johnson, won the grueling 400-mile race in 1910. For the next decade, Siberian Huskies, particularly those bred and raced by Leonhard Seppala, captured most of the racing titles in Alaska, where the rugged terrain was ideally suited to the endurance capabilities of the breed.

In 1925, the city of Nome, Alaska, was stricken by a diphtheria epidemic and supplies of antitoxin were urgently needed. Many sled dog drivers, including Mr. Seppala, were called upon to relay the lifesaving serum to Nome by dog team. This heroic “serum run” focused attention upon Siberian Huskies, and Seppala brought his dogs to the Unites States on a personal appearance tour. While here, he was invited to compete in sled dog races in New England, where the sport had already been introduced. The superior racing ability and delightful temperament of Seppala’s Siberian Huskies won the respect and the hearts of sportsman from Alaska to New England. It was through the efforts of these pioneer fanciers that the breed was established in the United States and that AKC recognition was granted in 1930. Many Siberian Huskies were assembled and trained in Chinook Kennels in New Hampshire for use on the Byrd Antarctic Expeditions. Dogs of the breed also served valiantly in the Army’s Arctic Search and Rescuer Unit of the Air Transport command during World War II.

The Siberian Husky is naturally friendly and gentle in temperament. He possesses at times an independent nature, and although very alert, in many cases he lacks the aggressive or protective tendencies of a watchdog. He is by nature fastidiously clean and free from the body odors that many dense-coated breeds have. Although remarkable for his adaptability to all kinds of living conditions, his natural desire to roam makes a measure of control necessary at all times. The understanding owner will find the Siberian Husky an enjoyable companion in country or city. He has endeared himself to dog fanciers everywhere by his versatility, striking beauty, and amiable disposition.

Taken from AKC: The Complete Dog Book 19th Edition Revised.

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Tasty Treats: Recipe for Doggie’s Favorite Birthday Cake
(taste-tested and approved by doggie volunteers from poodles...to border collies...to labradors….)

Easiest recipe ever, and both kids and adults will enjoy celebrating the birthday of this important member of your family!

You will need:

Bake at 350 degrees until done. (Follow instructions on cake mix box concerning baking times for various cake pans)

Cool cake completely and remove from pan. Place on “doggie proof” cake plate.

Gather everyone, grab a camera, and watch your birthday boy or girl dig in and scarf up every last bite. This cake smells wonderful, so you may want to have an alternate treat for your children so there is no confusion!

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Ask AKC with Lisa Peterson
Tips On Housebreaking

Dear Lisa : I have two 5-month-old Pug brothers who are almost housebroken. One of our Pugs periodically jumps onto the coffee table and urinates on it. He will also urinate on a chair. I’ve never had a dog do this before and my husband and I are at our wits’ end. Do you have any advice for us? — Piddlin’ Pug in Pittsburgh

Dear Piddlin’: Any dog that jumps on a table and leaves his mark is not “almost” housebroken. It sounds like your male dogs are having some sort of “contest” between the two of them for either dominance of each other or maybe some other dominant figure in the house, such as your husband. I once had an intact male Schipperke who would pee on every pillow where the male head of the household slept. I’d recommend neutering your boys if they are not yet fixed, as this will help with the dominance issues.

I would suggest you start their housebreaking all over again and crate them while unsupervised. If your dogs do this in front of you, then one dog may be doing it to get attention as well. Make sure you spend equal time with each dog. You may be inadvertently creating jealousy in one of the dogs. Since the dogs are young, I would urge you to take them to obedience training (find a class near you) if you haven’t already. Give the dogs an outlet for their energy, and taking them to class will teach them you are the boss, not them.

Double Trouble
On a related note, raising litter brothers is always risky because they tend to stay in that pack mentality and look to each other for guidance rather than the human member of the pack. When breeders keep two from the same litter, many times they send the pups to separate homes until they are much older, maybe even a year old, before reuniting them. They need the “alone” time to focus on training and to develop independently of the other one for better temperament and much needed socialization with other dogs.

In my experience, many times puppies outgrow such antics, but a firm “pack leader” must step in and show the dogs exactly what you expect of them, which is not to mark the furniture or try to dominate each other or the human members in the den. Through training and establishing a happy routine full of exercise, fun time and training for the dogs, they will get your new message loud and clear.

Lisa Peterson, a long-time owner/breeder/handler of Norwegian Elkhounds, is the AKC Director of Club Communications. If you have a question, send it to Lisa at lxp@akc.org and she may select it to be answered here in Ask AKC. © 2005 The American Kennel Club, Inc.

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Ask The Vet
Dr. Douple – Landisville Animal Hospital

Q. I’ve heard that chocolate can be fatal if ingested by dogs. Is this true?

A. Calls about chocolate ingestion are frequent at most veterinary hospitals, especially around the holiday seasons. Most people are aware that chocolate is not a good treat for their dogs, but many misconceptions exist about just how toxic chocolate is to pets. Dogs (and some cats) often love the taste of chocolate and can readily consume a large quantity of chocolate in a short time. A dog will readily gulp down a Hershey Kiss that falls on the floor, or, more seriously, the entire batch of chocolate chip cookies that was cooling on the kitchen counter. It is important to know that there are different levels of toxicity present in different forms of chocolate, which present differing degrees of danger to our pets.

The major components of chocolate that cause illness are methylxanthine alkaloids. These include caffeine, theophylline and theobromine. The concentration of these methylxanthines alkaloids varies, depending on the type of chocolate. Milk chocolate has the least; unsweetened bakers chocolate has the most toxins. Worse yet would be the dark chocolate covered coffee beans that have recently become a popular treat.

Examples of methylxanthine levels in various chocolates:

(Source: The 5 Minute Veterinary Consult. copyright 1992 pp. 440 - 441. Larry P. Title and Francis W. K. Smith Jr.)

So what does this mean for our pets? The minimum lethal dosage of methylxanthines in dogs ranges from 45-90 mg per pound. At this rate, it would only take about one pound of milk chocolate or 4 oz of baking chocolate to potentially kill a 16 pound dog. For the average 65 to 75 pound labrador, it would take 4 pounds of milk chocolate or 16 ounces of baking chocolate to be potentially lethal. That is a lot of milk chocolate for a dog to eat, but only 2 bars of the baking chocolate that many bakers keep stocked in their pantry (8 oz each). The average batch of chocolate chip cookies takes 11-16 ounces of semisweet chocolate to prepare, and most large dogs would happily consume the entire batch. Fortunately, this would not put the average doberman or retriever sized dog into the lethal level of toxicity, but the dog could expect to have symptoms of chocolate toxicity.

So what does chocolate do to dogs? Most dogs who consume a mild to moderate toxic dose of chocolate will exhibit some level of digestive upset within 2 to 4 hours after ingestion. Often the pet will become agitated and restless. A more severe or lethal dose of chocolate will cause the body temperature to rise and the heart rate to become elevated. In a short time, seizures and tremors may develop and death can occur in 12-36 hours.

So what should you do if your medium to large sized dog eats a milk chocolate bar? First, relax. A chocolate bar does not contain the lethal dose of chocolate for your dog. But be prepared; your dog may get a bit of a chocolate “high” and may get some digestive upset including vomiting and diarrhea. If he or she does get an upset stomach, feed a bland diet until the dog seems back to normal. If, however, your dog of any size eats some semisweet, dark, or baking chocolate, you should probably contact your veterinarian to decide if medical attention is needed. If the ingestion was recent, your veterinarian may induce vomiting and get the excess chocolate out of the stomach before the toxins can be fully absorbed. Veterinarians can also administer activated charcoal to absorb some of the toxins from the digestive system. If the toxin level is very severe, intravenous fluids may be given to flush out the toxins and keep the pet’s electrolyte balance in check. Tranquilizers can also be given to reduce tremors and seizures. Unfortunately, there is no antidote to the chocolate toxins, so your vet can only give supportive care and hopefully help a severely intoxicated pet “ride through” the poisoning.

So, do not worry if your dog eats a small milk chocolate bunny out of the Easter basket or a piece or two of Halloween candy, but do try to keep all chocolate, especially baking type chocolates, high and out of reach of your pets. Be sure cooling baked goods are also supervised and not ingested by pets when you are not looking. If your dog eats a questionable amount of chocolate, or is small in size, call your veterinarian for advice on whether or not treatment is needed. Be ready to tell the veterinarian what type of chocolate product was injested and how much was eaten. When in doubt, always call your veterinarian.

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Cockatiels: Egg-sessive Behavior
By Lizz Lund

Cockatiels make excellent avian pets. Like their parakeet “cousins,” they are extremely social creatures. As such, both males and females can be wonderful life-long companions, since a healthy cockatiel’s average life span can be 15 to 25 years. But an overly affectionate female may develop excessive egg laying behavior. This condition can severely, or fatally, affect your pet’s health.

A single female cockatiel (or hen) is capable of laying eggs without the stimulus of a male cockatiel. This sometimes occurs because of emotional bonding to her owner - male or female. While not ideal, it’s not considered unusual for a hen to lay five or six unfertilized eggs per year. If this occurs, it is essential to give your bird additional calcium. Increase the number of cuttlebones you provide, and add crushed oyster shells (available at your local pet supply store) to her daily seed routine.

Allow your cockatiel to nest with her unfertilized eggs for a few days — removing eggs prematurely can promote further activity. She will probably nest with them on the floor of her cage. Be sure to provide direct access to food and water during this time. She will not want to leave her eggs unless her “partner” is present, as in nature a cockatiel couple shares nesting duties. Your cockatiel hen may not leave her eggs to eat or void without some calm reassurances
from you.

Once you are able to remove the eggs, relocate your cockatiel to a different room. The new surroundings should hopefully disrupt her egg-laying behavior. Also, after her first egg-laying episode, it’s advisable to have your cockatiel examined by either a certified avian veterinarian, or by a veterinarian, who specializes in small animals and birds.

Unfortunately, some egg-laying behavior can be persistent. This can occur due to reactions in daylight changes (such as daylight savings time), “mating signals” from outside birds, or even hormone imbalances. Excessive egg-laying can be a serious health risk to your female cockatiel, as it depletes her system of calcium. Severe calcium deficiency in a laying hen can result in egg binding – a condition that prevents her from passing the eggs. Egg binding can be fatal.

There are solutions. You can impose “early bedtimes” to simulate winter daylight to interrupt her egg-laying calendar. You might also want to make sure her view does not directly face a window. The activity of outside birds could translate as mating signals to your overly affectionate cockatiel. In extreme conditions, hormone therapy or even spaying can be discussed with a licensed avian veterinarian.

Cockatiels are wonderful pets. And like all pets, they require your care and attention. These social animals desire to become part of your “flock” – your family – and bond easily to caring owners. Remember, avian pets are not low maintenance; they are not care-free substitutes for a cat or dog. Birds require the same amount of affection and responsibility as feline or canine pets.

Note: Lizz Lund is not a veterinarian, nor does she have any veterinary training. The information presented is provided as a general understanding and is not intended to diagnose or treat pets. To keep your pet in good health, make sure a qualified veterinarian examines your pet on a routine maintenance basis, and especially if you suspect your pet may be ill.

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Are you ready for your new puppy?
Edward J. Burrell, Jr, Training Director
ROGUE K9 Training
717-786-2119
roguek9@juno.com

Before you take on the challenge of bringing home your new puppy – ask yourself “Am I ready?” This is a long-term commitment that you are making – much like having a young child – for as much as 12-15 years, depending upon the breed.

If you have given the issue of adding a new member to your “pack” and still agree that it is the right thing to do and the right time to do it – read on.

Before The Puppy Arrives

1. Puppy proof the area – puppies can and will get into most anything possible. To avoid unwanted accidents, injury and the like – walk around your home and yard and look for things that the puppy could pick-up or get into. PICK THEM UP YOURSELF and put in a place that the puppy can not get to. If you wish to restrict the puppy from certain areas of the house/yard, get some baby gates and even a portable kennel.

2. Get a Crate – size and type will depend upon what type of puppy you get. A crate is probably one of the single best investments you can make to make the puppy a happy member of your pack.

3. Water/food dishes – stainless steel is the #1 choice to avoid chewing.

4. Collar/Leash – there are many types to pick from – REMEMBER, puppy will grow out of several collars/leashes before adulthood.

5. Toys – I recommend Kongs and Nylabones, but the key to buying puppy toys is that they can not be easily chewed apart or have pieces that can be swallowed.

6. FOOD – talk to your vet and the breeder. You should choose a high quality Premium Pet Food designed for your type/size of puppy. A little extra spent on quality food can avoid a lot of problems later. DO NOT CHANGE FOODS OFTEN – puppies/dogs do not tolerate changes in diet well.

7. Select a Vet – make an appointment as soon as possible.

8. Select a training program to get your family and your new puppy off to the right start. Puppy Kindergarten is a good start for young puppies, while those older than 6 months can usually start with Basic Obedience. Other programs of interest may include AKC/Canine Good Citizen – especially if you live in an apartment or rental property.

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